It seems I find myself liking each country I go to more and more, but maybe I just appreciate them for different reasons. Whatever the case, I am in love with South Africa.
Why?
1.The People
Everyone I met in South Africa was laid-back.
Our first night in Cape Town we went to Zula Mama Africa’s on Long Street. It was hip: live band, good location, popular balcony with views of arrests being made on the street below. David, a self-proclaimed nerd from Dartmouth, who I thoroughly enjoyed talking to, suggested that we sit down with some locals to get the vibe. We ended up having a long conversation with two women, life partners, one from London the other native to the Cape Coast. They chose to live together in SA because they are more tolerant of homosexuality. Interesting that a country that struggles so much with racial issues is more accepting of social issues that plague world powers around the globe. They owned a surf shop and offered us lessons for a discounted price.
Maddie, Taylor’s wonderful, enlightened, roommate from SCU, has been studying abroad through the CIEE service and learning program at Cape Town University. She and the eight other students in this unique program attend liberal arts classes at CTU (or when the teacher feels like visiting, in their living room) and also participate in local humanitarian projects. Maddie works in a township, helping with young children that have already been diagnosed with HIV/AIDS. She said that it was eerie how mature and knowledgeable the kids were about the widespread disease. One of the first things Taylor ever told me about her was, “Maddie wants to save the world.” And I believe that what she is doing now will have a beneficial multiplier effect for South Africa and in turn the world.
On Sunday we met several other Americans in South Africa. One of Maddie’s housemates had recently organized a movement in Cape Town that made international headlines in the New York Times! We met interns from all around the world that were working in non-profit organizations. For example, Charlie from Dublin who coaches rugby at a township school- aiming to give students organized extracurriculars because if he knows they’re doing that, he knows they’re not spreading HIV. Brett, from Michigan who’s dad was a Phi Delt at Miami ’70 (holla at my boys), was similarly coaching a basketball team. Tom, from Connecticut (Fairfield County, holla at B & Ted) had been mugged three times this week but was still having a great time in his semester off from USC helping in South Africa.
Then there was Steve, our ‘boogie bus’ driver. A boogie bus is much like the ‘trotro’ from Ghana in shape, size, and upkeep. However, Steve’s pride and joy was differentiated by its unique decorations including a disco ball and hanging lucky trinkets. Also, it was colorfully creatively painted. Maddie had his number in her cell phone and her housemates and she would call Steve whenever they wanted to travel in a group. Anyway! Steve loved his job and he really was proud of his bus which he had bought used sixteen years ago. He had such a jovial view on things; he was excited about the things we were doing; he was fatherly looking out for us; he was eager to give us advice and impart his local knowledge. Steve had gusto for life and his connection to his community and nation was obvious when he spoke about the area. Interestingly, Steve was what South Africans would call ‘colored’ – neither black nor white. The fact that he had this nationalism was a hopeful indicator that South Africa has taken great social strides since the end of the Apartheid.
2.The Land
Oh how beautiful it is! We woke up early to watch the ship come into harbor while the sun was rising over Table Mountain. Flying to Kruger I saw that plateau mountains were common everywhere in the country. Our visit in the first week of October corresponded with South Africa’s first week of spring. The green nation was spotted with bright colors of flowering trees. The wine lands were picturesque and even the barren terrain of Kruger could be appreciated because it was home to diverse wildlife.
3.The History
Kaffir Boy is an amazing book by Mark Mathabane. It is a narrative about a boy’s struggle and life in the townships during apartheid. The true story follows him from the darkness of misguided hatred, through education and sports, to the light of realization of social equality and opportunity. Read it.
Gandhi’s inspiration to begin his movement began in South Africa when Indians were facing social discrimination.
The apartheid just ended, South Africa’s history is so recent. I highly recommend looking into it- just Wikipedia. I’m not going to give a history lesson here.
4. The City
Long Street is so unique. An eclectic grouping of bars, boutiques, and diners. All of which have balconies. Many of my friends felt at home saying it felt like their stomping ground in San Diego.
The Muslim neighborhood/ township that was central in the city was rows of vibrantly painted houses that had stayed in the family for generations.
Like any city, there are the street dwellers that add extra character. While walking around, a drunk man stumbled in front of us, proclaimed that Maddie was from England, Taylor was from Africa, and I was from Australia. We kept walking, so did he. He walked right into a man waiting to cross the street. The man ignored him but the drunken fellow was enraged and picked up a rock and threw it at him. It missed. I noted how clean the city was because that was the first stray sizeable rock I had seen. Then we laughed at the random things that happen on city streets.
Waterfront, the area we ported in, harkened back to Michigan Avenue in Chicago or any main shopping area of a cosmopolitan city. It was so nice to shop without haggling or bartering.
Through our Cape Town connections a few of us got on a list for the trendy club, Chrome. I actually had to give my name, be checked, and then allowed in- how official! Inside house music raged and 1rand shots (13cents) were bought by the rounds.
The community of the townships add character to South Africa. On Sunday, the place to be was Muzzolis. It was packed which made it all the more interesting and fun. The basic principal of this Sunday day-drinking party was to celebrate the whole week by buying a bucket of meat. Then going across the street to the liquor store and buying a six pack of Savanah Dry, which is a cider beer similar to Strongbow. House music, a techno mix of reggae and hip hop, provided an irresistible dance beat.
5. So much to do!
I, Katie Jo Kohls, love to be active. I want to do things. I want to get up and go. I want to play. I want to experience. I want variety. South Africa offers a little bit of everything. In six days I tried to take in as much as I could.
For class credit, we ventured to the wine lands for a wine ‘tasting’ and learned about the production and marketing involved in small wineries. We focused our questions on things the vineyards (Nelson’s Creek and Backsberg) were doing to become more sustainable. Most importantly, we learned how to properly evaluate wine. I will now be able to keep up- somewhat- with Uncle Jim and Aunt Deb when they try to impress new wines upon Krista and me.
I went on a REAL safari!
I hiked and climbed a two hour strenuous path up Table Mountain, named for the cloud covering that shrouds it like a table cloth. The hike was fun, granted we were unprepared when we set out. There were nine of us, one person with water. On the way up those in jeans wished they had dressed for a serious cardio workout and limber movements. On top, in my tank top and shorts, I was laughed at by workers who were bundled in legitimate ski jackets.
Exploring, helping, surfing, shark cage diving, the tallest bungee jumping bridge in the world, relaxing countryside, facing raw danger on safari, the opportunities are boundless.
6. Opportunity to make a difference
What really attaches me to this country is the fact that I know I can help. South Africa is Almost There in terms of economic, health, and social issues. So much has been done already to improve the condition, which is why South Africa is a leader for the continent. I want to go back and help with education. From my traveling thus far, I have realized that education makes all the difference. If we educate people, we can give them the tools to make decisions that will benefit their country. No one knows their country more than the locals. I think this is one problem with giving foreign aid, making decisions for a country without a real grasp on their culture, history, aspirations, or core issues. I’ve never seen myself as a humanitarian, probably much to my mother’s dismay. But, here there’s a starting point. I know that young people with an untarnished optimism regarding nations of misfortune and global cooperation can catapult countries like South Africa towards complete stability. I believe individuals like the people I met while visiting, people like me and other students my age, can make more of a difference by understanding and working hands on than any impersonal organization.
The games were intense. I am member of the Yellow Sea. Our color was red. If this alone did not foreshadow the confusion of our team, then our meager construction paper taped to a lacrosse stick torch that was presented by an eccentric guy in a Speedo at the opening ceremonies would definitely stand as our introduction to the Olympic community.
