Cambodia: I had no idea

Our arrival to Cambodia was eventful to say the least. We took a small airplane. It was one of the shortest plane rides I have ever been on, just under 30min. But it was by far the scariest. Everything was going smoothly as we filled out our Cambodian visas and customs forms. That was until we took a sudden drop from the air! For a mere second or two I felt suspended in gravity. I couldn’t even make a noise but there were several people screaming in the rows behind me. I looked across the aisle to Kelly (from Miami University) and we laughed uncomfortably. A minute later there was a loud shaking sound and I could feel the nose of the plane dipping and the suspended feeling came back. I shrieked and sunk my nails into the poor victim beside me. The pilot came on the intercom and said “ladies and gentlemen we have begun our decent.” Thank God.
        
        We visited an orphanage in Phnom Penh. It had been started by a Semester At Sea alumnus, Terry. We were all led by hand around the compound by the kids. We watched a traditional dance about fighting monkeys- later I saw professionals do it too. They led us to the roof where we could see city buildings with clay roofs all around us. It started pouring and we sought shelter inside where they showed us things they had made from recycled rice bags. I talked with Ben, a volunteer and SAS alum, for a while. He talked about his adventures from 2004. He has since graduated and spent a year in the work world. He decided a desk job wasn’t for him, so he contacted Terry and has decided to volunteer for five months in Cambodia teaching English to the orphanage children and figuring out his next move.

        Our itinerary said we were heading to the natural museum and our guide began telling us about the history of the Khmer Rouge. Then we were at a police blockade. Then our guide left the bus. Then we all worried because he was out of sight for too long. Then our driver left the bus. Then our trip leaders began asking for a cell phone to call for help. We tried to look through the rain covered windows but all I could see was a group of men stirring a large vat of stew under a tarp awning. Finally, our guide returned. He explained that the police wanted money to let all of us Americans through. I don’t understand exactly what happened but I know that our guide was really upset for the rest of the night. He said that this is a dilemma. The government wants the economy to improve, tourism is a great way to do that, but the police are corrupt and he fears this will make tourists not want to come back. I thought it was exciting.

        Our hotel was directly across from the American Embassy. Our friend Griffin had a balcony off of his room. We all gathered there and watched the activity in the streets below. That night was the last night of the Light Festival and we had a great view of the celebration flooding the streets below.

At a traditional Khmer dinner, which was enough to be my appetizer, we asked our guide about a club we had heard of called, ‘The Heart of Darkness.’ Our guide didn’t understand what we were asking and told us to never walk alone at night- especially in the heart of darkness. Nevertheless we took tuk-tuks (the Cambodian version of a rickshaw) to the club. It ended up being a gay club full of hookers. But we danced to the old top 40 American hits nonetheless.

        The next morning after we visited the haunting killing fields. Our bus was engaged in a heated debate over whether to go to the natural museum or genocide museum. Justin a hilarious friend from Stanford made a convincing argument for the genocide museum. He argued that the history of the Khmer rouge, the genocides that wiped out over 2 million people from a population smaller than California’s, and America’s decision not to get involved were all too recent for our generation to avoid. Although statues and art would have been interesting, we can get our art fix in the markets. We saw photos of victims and the torture methods they endured. I am glad he made this argument because the reeducation school we visited was eye opening.

        We took another short plane ride up to Siem Rep. We went directly to the temples of Angkor Wat to watch the sunset in the reflecting pools. The first time I saw a picture of them was when Grandma and Grandpa received their National Geographic Magazine in the mail and it was on the cover. That is also the moment I decided to go on the Cambodia trip. Seeing it in person was humbling, Angkor Wat was immense and so carefully constructed. It is amazing that only one fifth of it is uncovered. The rest is still out there in the jungle, it reminds me of the jungle book.
        As I have said, according to what I have read and what was confirmed by our tour guide, Cambodia’s main industry is tourism. Nothing makes this more obvious than the amount of hotels that line the street. On short ride to ancient temples, at least seven five-star hotels will unfold from the landscape rotating beside us.  This makes sense. If they want the industry to grow they need the infrastructure to support it. We stayed in the Borei Wat Hotel and Spa. It was gorgeous. Hard wood floors, beds comfortable enough for the princess and the pea and, white drapes twirling around the doorway to the balcony that looks over a crystal blue pool framed in thick tropical landscape.
        Kelly and I took advantage of the Spa. I had no idea Cambodia and Vietnam were known for their massage services. For an inexpensive price I was treated to a ‘Healing Massage’ for a full hour. I have never gotten a massage before. We were separated into two rooms. My masseuse did not speak English. She held out her hand and said ‘naked.’ Okay. She started rubbing me down with oil and I realized how tense my body was. I was falling into an imagined realm of peace listening to crickets and the lapping pool. Okay. Then I heard smacking coming from the other room. I started laughing. Okay? Then my lady gets on top of me and starts smacking my legs and butt. Okayyyy… this process continues for a while, when I hear smacking coming from the room next to me I brace myself for the ‘healing.’ Then she flips me over so I am fully exposed and I am reaching for a towel and she puts her weight on my neck forcing my chin into my sternum she keeps pushing and my head falls between my legs and I keep going like a summersault and we both collapse onto the mat. Oh.kay! I was extremely sore the next day. Not Okay. What’s the hype about massages anyway?