Thursday, November 19, 2009

Cambodia: Shop 'till you drop

After lunch we went through the markets. If the vendors put a roof over their stands and became a supermarket it would be called: Same Same But Different... Everything 2dolla!
In Cambodia, the currency is Riel. But US dollars are used more commonly. The Riel has such a small value that they are used as the change to our dollars. Example: 500 riel= 23 cents. This is partly due to the fact that not too long ago, after the aforementioned national tragedies, several hundred American diplomats and humanitarians came to Cambodia to help reconstruct their country. They spent for themselves, for the country, and for the people. They were not using credit cards or debit cards, they were using cash. Everything was cheap so small bills (mostly one and five dollar bills) were used. It wasn’t too long ago that this country was in complete isolation, so they didn’t have much of their own currency- most people still bartered and traded. Also, in a country with such a small per capita population a few hundred foreigners made a huge impact. Eventually there were just as many dollars as there was riel. Now, when you see price tags they are in USD. When you pay for something that is $1.50 with $2, the change is 1700 riel- usually given in four small, bright colored bills.
  Obviously, I shopped my little heart out. Not because I really wanted anything but because of how cheap things are. This is what would happen:
American Girl will be played by me. I look like a tourist to the tee (try as I might, I can’t help it). I am wearing dark jeans, a low cut-earth toned shirt, my trekking shoes, my hair is in braided pigtails and I wear no jewelry (safety measures of course) instead I am adorned with cameras and travel bags.
Cambodian Vendors will be played by three types: each with a specific sales tactic.
Vendor child: the younger the child the less clothes they wore. The younger children travel in groups it sounds like a choir is following you, singing soft and sad songs. The children mumble repetitive phrases about being able to buy food or go to school always drawing out the coda word, ‘pleeeassseeee’. Then beginning again. They follow closely at our sides but seem distant. They bob their heads all about searching for something but stare at nothing as they sing their begging songs. This girl wants me to buy fifteen bracelets for a dollar. They aren’t pretty, I don’t want them. She knows that I stopped to consider it so she zeroes in on me. Following me for well over half a mile. I have 1500 riel- less than fifty cents- I tell her I will give her this (unconvertible) currency for one bracelet. She is zombie like as she tucks away the money and gives me all fifteen bracelets. Justin tries to shoo away a child vendor by saying the only thing he wants is bug spray. You can’t make bug spray from weaving or witling so he thinks he is successful when the child leaves. However when we return in the afternoon the child is waiting for him- with bug spray…
Vendor pre-teen: I say pre-teen because life in a third world country ages the soul. Not the body, malnourishment causes the body to be stunted in growth and development. Yet, teenagers often provide for a large family or have similar burdens that we wouldn’t expect until mid-life. Anyway, these vendors are sharp. Trying to respect their culture by wearing long pants and conservative top I am wearing from walking and climbing under the high sun in the tropical jungle climate. I do not want to be followed by a parade of vendors. The pre-teens know this so they single us out. When we turn them down they make bets:
Vendor: ‘If I tell you the president of (Insert any country here)/ the capital of (insert any state/ providence/ country here) you will buy these postcards.’ It’s a command not a request.
American: ‘okay buddy, tell me the capital of Wisconsin.’
V: ‘Madison. Postcards.’
A: ‘California’
V: ‘Sacramento, where you from lady? Postcards.’
A: ‘Not fair. Who is the president of Canada? The king of Morocco? The capital of Ghana?’
The vendor knows every answer. Even to questions I don’t know the answer of, they answer confidently enough that I believe them. I try to stump them over and over. I end up with at least four packs of postcards by the end of the day.
Vendor adult: desperate. I touch a pair of pants and they are by my side offering them to me for five dollars. I say I am not interested. The price is cut to three dollars. I apologize, I was just looking. I walk away and they call out two dollars, final offer. I don’t want the pants! I just touched them! He is at my side when I stop at the next stand. One dollar for a pair of pants. Fine! I will take the pants! I empty my bags; I have things I forgot I had even bought. I have things that I do not know what to call. I have clothing items that I cannot figure out how to wear. However, I do not have buyer’s regret. Like my mama taught me, if you save more than you spend it’s always considered a success

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